Still in Uganda:
I climbed into bed at 2am last night, and I could hear the neighborhood dogs barking. Then a man’s voice, yelling passionately in Luganda and English, “I WILL NOT DIE!” Everything seemed to stop, even the dogs. Out of the silence the voices of men and women rose in the most delightful chorus I have ever heard. A clapping, complicated and brilliant, joined and halted. A woman’s voice finally rose above the rest, soothing and restful, clear in the night air. I fell asleep smiling.